Over the bank-holiday weekend we took a walk around Savill Garden’s near Englefield Green. The day was fairly warm with mixed cloud and sun, which made it sometimes great for photos, sometimes not so.
Roughly half way through our walk near to the north west most point of the gardens, near a brick summer house, I looked up overhead to see a large bird gliding almost stationary.
As I was the one with the zoom lens on at the time, I pointed the camera skywards and started snapping. Turns out the first shot was actually the best one, the rest fell fowl of the area focus I had setup on the camera when really I wanted to have spot focus. After a short discussion trying to identify the bird, I believe it to be a Red Kite
Red Kite – 70-300mm (at 300mm) f/8 1/1250s iso 400
Snapped this Robin on the walk into work in early February, the same Robin was basically hanging around the hedged path each day. On this particular morning it was pointed out to me that it is quite tame and seems to be sitting and watching us. I had time to get my camera and change the lens.
I think it is a male, so the title should read Mr, as it has a U shaped forehead, but, other people tell me females tend to have that big fluffy rounded look, I have no idea, maybe someone could tell me (along with their certainty) and I can update the title.
Nikon D610, 300mm f/5.6 ISO 800 1/125s, Handheld
This shot was taken back in 2015 while on holiday at Lake of Two Rivers in Algonquin Park. I got up early one of the mornings after seeing how misty the camp site would get as the sun began to peek over the hillsides. Someone obviously got up much earlier than I did, being out paddling on the lake. Even so it was a beautiful morning.
D610 with 105mm Macro Nikkor at f/11 1/200s iso50
During a visit to the UK I went to one of my childhood holiday memory spots. Bournemouth. It was a chance for my wife and I to get away and relax by the sea side.
We went to the Bournemouth Oceanarium, I took my Camera… because…
At the Oceanarium I took quite a few photographs, this one is of an Inca Tern sitting on a rock at the Penguin enclosure. There were around 2 pairs of them flying around the enclosure.
Nikon D610 300mm (at 270mm) f/5.6 iso640 1/60s
Not bad for handheld! really love the white whiskers
Last summer, my parents visited Canada, since then I have not really gotten around to updating this blog, so I have a bit of a backlog of pictures. There are also new features of RAWTherapee that I have to get used to. To kick us off I present to you the result of crawling around on a pebble beach in the search of insects and spiders to point my 105mm Macro at.
Here is a shot of a Zebra spider that paused for a moment allowing me to snap a quick shot.
A little bit of editing was required to claw back some sharpness since the original shot is not pin sharp.
Sometimes, we have the wrong equipment and cannot frame an image correctly. Many would say, well stand closer, or further away. This in principle is fine, but sometimes you get caught out and want to take a ultra wide angle shot, or even just combine two photographs.
What ever your reason is, you do not always need to pay for software in order to get results. This is not a sales pitch or a suggestion that you should delve into software piracy, but instead to point out a free, open-source, cross platform set of tools for achieving great results for free! This software package is called Hugin, and I discovered it after taking a set of about 12 shots of a particle physics detector with my 50mm lens, because, I had left my 28mm at home. I took the shots anyway and then thought… there has to be something out there I can use.
Here I will cover a simple guide on Hugin, the guides online work fine as well, but I thought I’d give it my personal twist. It will by no means supersede the official guides but I think will be more accessible.
So let us say you took these four shots of St George’s Chapel during a trip to Windsor Castle…
and you want to combine them.
Download Hugin from here http://hugin.sourceforge.net
When you open the application, it will give you some debug messages (depending on the version you get) ignore those, they are not important.
The interface you are looking at is probably the ‘Simple’ interface. This works fine, but i prefer the expert one. So go ahead and select that in the top menu bar. I am working on a mac, but the windows version is similar.
It should look like this
Select the Add Image and add each one.
So next thing to do is to check that the lens information is correct – it is in this case, the application usually gets it from the information embedded in the image. You will see the letters AC in the Anchor column on the first image.
This is positioning and exposure anchoring, basically which picture should the program say is dead ahead, and which picture should i match the brightness. You can change these by right clicking and selecting the relevant option. For this example I am going to select the second image.
Now the next step depends on the type of image. You now want Hugin to look at each image and find matching features around which it will make the stitch. You can simply press the “Create Control points” button. There are a couple of options, but, typically you want CP find or cpfind + celeste. Hit the button!
For these images, it found 67 for me.
Now, next you want to have hugin start laying the images out and to do any trimming down of potential problems. Sometimes it makes a mistake and some control points are bad, or you have lens distortion that causes issues. it is very good practice to remove these distortions using a lens profile and your favourite raw image processor if you are working from original raw files. The images on this page do not contain any such distortion removal… (sorry i was lazy)
So to do this, in the optimize area, the default option is “Positions (Incremental, starting from anchor) Press calculate
So we got our result back, this gives a deviation between control points on the different images, here our maximum is 2.15, the average is 0.27, i don’t know if this is in pixels, but the smaller the numbers, the better. So this worked quite well. Apply the changes. If something is drastically bad you may highlight all the images, right click and in the menu select clean control points. It will go through and remove the ones that don’t seem to work. In drastic cases you will need to go to the control points tab, and click through the image comparisons and figure out which control points are bad and remove them by hand. Here though, all looks good!
You can further optimize things by including more parameters from the optimize geometric options. The last one including things like rotation, zoom, barrel distortions, lots of good stuff. If you select that and hit calculate once again, the maximum deviation decreases to 0.8 in my case. This means that when I took the shot, I moved in a way that was none circular or i stepped to one side a little. Either way, the optimizer appears to have fixed it.
Now press the fast preview icon, it has the letters GL in it. The simple interface will pop up and show you what the panorama looks like. Press the stitch tab on the expert control windows and you will see the following screen.
Now, press Calculate field of view. The image on the preview should get bigger and roughly fill the whole black space.
Press Calculate optimal size, the canvas size will now reflect the actual stitched image size, yep, they can be huge!
Finally press Fit Crop to images
So now you can note how the program has stretched the images and overlayed them, you can also see how the exposure on one of the images is slightly higher, dont worry about this, the program will take care of that. In most cases that is…
Press Stitch, a dialogue will pop up, select your save names and off we go. Depending on your computer, it will now take a few seconds, or a few minutes.
Now check out the result (i have resized it)
Not bad! You can see some perspective distortion, but other than that, it looks like hugin did an excellent job!
Hugin will do other nice things, in the Masks tab, you can select parts of images you want to include or exclude… this is wonderful as it allows you to take several images of something such as a monument with tourists walking around. With enough shots, you can exclude everyone in all of the images and end up with a stacked image that looks like you took the shot when the place was deserted.
The Control points tab allows you to add or remove control points and change their locations. This is very useful if you have a problematic image and need to nurse it through the process.
With enough care you can do many things with this program!
I cannot recommend the 105mm Macro-Nikkor f/4 more than I already have, if you can get your hands on one cheap, used, or even be lucky enough to afford a brand spanking new one, GET ONE. This lens to me is so much fun, it is sharp enough to pull off macro-shots on the fly, as well as being a general workhorse for your shots that don’t need to be all that close up but benefit from that bit of a zoom. It isn’t the fastest lens in the world, but Iv found that recently more of my good shots, come from this lens than any other.
While out walking with my Parents on a very sunny day at Little Cataraqui Creek, north of Kingston, Ontario, the Damselfly were out in force. So I was able to get this lovely shot of one resting. Was not square on to it enough to get the whole body in focus, but it is close enough. Definitely a shot to go 1:1 with, but in this case this shot is the full frame, no crop.
Dont worry, there are more macro shots of bugs to follow.